La Paz Revisited

La Paz, the pearl of all Baja, has changed much in the 12 years since we first sailed into the bay. After a month at sea, we did not know what to expect of the second largest town in Baja Mexico.

It is the commercial center of southern Baja and almost all the merchandise comes across the Sea of Cortez by boat. Unlike Cabo, La Paz has never changed its true Mexican identity.

The city is very old, having originally been settled because of the pearl trade in Europe. The Spanish came hoping to find gold, but found white and black pearls and for a time most of the giant pearls came to Europe form La Paz as well as other bays on the Baja peninsula.

Almost all the pearl oysters are now gone. The Japanese have come to Baja to try to start up the cultured pearl business, but it is slow in developing. La Paz is no longer an acceptable area for the pearl industry because the water is no longer as clean and there is too much boat traffic.

Still La Paz has developed its own industry and that is tourism among the Mexican people. It has built a beautiful waterfront with a wide designer Malacon (or walk way) with benches looking out onto the water.

There are three major marinas now, each one more beautiful and modern than the last. When we first sailed into bay, there were only two and we chose the original Marina de la Paz for our slip. It was not cheap at $350 per month but the location was down in the heart of town within easy walking distance from all the fine restaurants and beach front.

There were mostly sail boats at that time, however now more than half of the boats are power cruisers, some in the over 100 foot class. These mega yachts suck up the fuel and if you are unfortunate enough to get behind one, you will be lucky to get any fuel at all.

Many of the local landmarks are still here. The boaters restaurant is still at the end of the dock and it has upgraded its menu to attract people from the surrounding community. Unfortunately the restaurant also upgraded its price list and where it used to be a bargain, now it is less so.

The little boat supply store near the docks has doubled in size and is doing a booming business. With prices about double what West Marine charges in the states, it can’t help but make a good profit.

But not every store is making a big profit. The Sey, sey, sey, food market has changed its name and become more modern. It is very much effected by the new Walmart in town and a chart in front compares the prices of shopping here or at Walmart.

Our favorite restaurant, the one which we always have to stop in when we are in town, is still in business. It’s specialty is Papas Rellenos for potatoes stuffed with mushrooms, corn, either pork or beef and topped with cheese.

The hotel we are staying at, is an up-class hotel for us, but now they are offering a special rate for regular customers and locals who own places in Baja. Our rate was about half the regular asking price so we could afford the luxury. It’s suites were regularly over $100 a night which might not seem like much in terms of the states, but is high for us in Mexico.

Big American stores like Costco and Home Depot have located in La Paz and we came down with a shopping list for our friends and neighbors who wanted special things which could not be found is our little beach area.

Still the big stores have not ruined the small shops which line the main streets of La Paz. It still is one of the most beautiful cities in all of Mexico, very clean and the people are very friendly and very Mexican.

That’s just the way we like it.